Runway Rundown: Milan Fashion Week S/S ’15

Milan is Italy’s fashion capital, and it’s where some of Europe’s most to-die-for fashions are born. There’s the mega-brands whose names sumptuously roll off the tongue à la Gucci, Pucci, Dolce, or Prada, but also the brands most of us will ever be able to pronounce (try saying Francesco Scognamiglio three times fast). But even if we can’t pronounce their names we can see that their fashion is top notch. So what went down in the land of dolce vita, and just how did that iconic italian flare mix with fashion’s latest trends? Here’s everything you need to know:



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Just last month we were raving about the Southwestern influences that were captivating the fashion set, we dubbed it Paris x Dallas. Now it’s popped up on Gucci’s Spring runway, along with a mix of italian luxe and seventies flare. There was suede in hues ranging from a warm brown to a bold red that made up coats, skirts, and more. Denim was another mainstay this season, taking on several roles from the likes of a lace-up dress to some modernized seventies flares. But this was no rough and tumble collection. Take a closer look and you’ll see prim scarves tied neatly around the models’ necks, the clearly luxe gold embellishments, along with much more that firmly roots the Gucci girl in luxury territory… but the coolest luxe Italy has to offer. And what else would you expect with Kate Moss seated front and center?

No. 21


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No. 21 is a recent project of Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s creation. But the brand has quickly won notice and a slew of fashionable fans, especially after Dell’Acqua was named the creative director at the French fashion house, Rochas, last year. What makes No. 21 intriguing is that it’s different, unwaveringly so. Dell’Acqua abstains from convention, which he continued here. He mixed high-fashion luxe with both military and grunge influences. There were crisp army green pieces paired with striking silver embroidery. Grungy flannels got the same treatment, but instead with a patent-like green macramé. Embellishments are always a must at No. 21, and this season they were everywhere from the belts to the bralettes, skirts, and even the shoes — which were particularly polarizing (but not hard to imagine popping up on the street style scene). While contrasting high and low may be a much used fashion trope, No. 21 continues to do it differently. Luckily for Dell’Acqua, his different is quite desirable.



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While fashion is usually about what’s new and what’s next, this season Miuccia Prada instead thought about the end of it all. If you’ve ever wondered how the Prada woman would look in an apocalyptic world, this collection was your answer. This women is upper-class but quirky, the clothes she’s kept with her range from skirt suits to sheath dresses, cardigans, embroidered coats, and a slew of knee socks to boot. But these pieces now show undeniable wear and even hints of mending, like the exposed frayed seams along with the mismatched top-stitching. The pieces were not some of Prada’s wilder fare (like the rainbow face-print furs from last spring) but there were some beautiful clothes nonetheless. It was those small details that brought the story to life, and ultimately made the collection another winner for Prada.



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Versace is a brand fully committed to maximalism, it may be the foremost name in that style. But today Versace went “minimal” — quotations very much necessary. For while this was no typical minimalism it was indeed Versace branded minimalism. While Versace and minimalism usually don’t go together, it worked, amazingly well actually. Donatella created a dawn to dawn (the Versace girl doesn’t stop at dusk) wardrobe for her woman. There was day suiting, often in black with contrasting stitching at times and at others with white perforated panels. The classic Versace Medusa emblem was there too, now built into a funky geometrical print. But like the Versace girl, the clothes shown brightest at night — and this season they really sparkled. From the ultimate white power-suit laced with red crystallized bands (and a killer pair of matching shoes) to the colorblocked sparkling mini-dresses, Versace truly lit up the runway with this collection. And for all you maximalists who might be worried, don’t be, we think this is about as minimal a Versace as we’ll ever see.



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We should probably start off by saying that no, Barbie style is not a trend for next Spring. But Moschino is one of the most buzzed about shows in Milan and it truly is a must see. It’s fun fashion — with an emphasis on fun. Jeremy Scott recreated an entire Barbie lineup for this collection, there was everything from Moschino Barbie sporting a pink cropped motorcycle jacket and matching skirt to poolside Barbie in a terry cloth wrap dress and matching turban. This was high-impact, made to be seen (or gawked at) fashion, which Scott does oh so well. While we don’t think terry cloth dresses are going to be the next “thing”… We can see Moschino’s eye-catching accessories (like the pink biker bag or one of the bold belts) and their graphic pieces (one shirt read “Moschino For Ages Five And Over”) flying off the shelves. In fact, they already are. Moschino released a capsule version of the collection following the runway. So while you may not agree with his aesthetic, you have to at least admit that Scott does it smartly.

Milan is always an exciting place for fashion, and this season didn’t disappoint. there was plenty of bold fashion and that flare that only the Italians seem to master. The biggest theme of the week has to be high-low fashion. From Gucci’s Southwestern seventies luxe to Prada’s apocalyptic aristocrat, it was a trend that couldn’t be missed. But that’s all from Milan for this season, the fashion set has said their arrivederci’s and are off to fashion’s mecca, Paris. We’ll see you next week with everything major and je ne sais quoi from Paris. So as the Parisians would say, à bientôt!

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